TriAxis
Updates
|
|
|
The "Fat Mod"
TriAxis' shipped after June 97 have new "Lead 1 Red"
as standard specification. Serial #'s below 5200 have Lead
1 "Recto Mod" (board TX04 added) and above 5200 have "Fat Mod". This
mod is a circuit change to mode Lead 1 Red (both software and hardware). A kit
is available, that will enable an authorized MESA technician to do the work.
Look for one in your area or contact MESA directly. MESA advises that users
test a new TriAxis at their local dealer to see if the new tone works for them,
before having the modification done. If you're happy with the sound of Lead 1,
you may not like the change. I believe this mod is for
those users that don't use their Lead
1 mode often. This modification will
expand their use of this particular mode.
The current tone is described as
being "fat (of course), singing soloing tones that are super
smooth", the high-end has been tailored (rolled off) for more balance. It
emulates the circuitry in the Rectifier series of amp. Someone says that more closely resemble (somiglia maggiormente) to the Orange Channel of Dual Recto.
The most current software version for the TriAxis is 2.0. Serial #'s
above 1700 are version 2.0. When you power on the
TriAxis the panel lights will flash a "1" for Version 1 or
"2" for Version 2.
If you've TriAxis and are still not sure if yours is
with or w/o "Fat Mod" here's how to find out: restore your factory presets (pg.
5 in the manual), then set your TriAxis on Factory Preset #01:
Lead
1 Red Preset #
Gain Tre Mid Bass Lead1 Lead2 Master Pres. D.Voice
w/o 01 6.0 5.0 7.0 7.0 6.0
- 5.0 5.0
0.0 British Shred(?)
w/ Fat Mod 01 6.0 6.5 7.5 8.0 5.5
- 4.5 5.0
0.0 Rectifier
w/ Fat Mod 10 6.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 2.0
- 5.5 2.0
0.0
From Version 1 to Version 2 the difference seems to
be:
Treble Mid Bass Lead1 Master
+1.5 +1.0 +1.0 –0.5
-0.5
As I obtain more information I'll post it here. I'll
still try to answer, or get an answer to any other
questions on the mod or TriAxis in general that I get.
Version 2.0 allows for Continuous Control changes of
all parameters within a preset with the use of a CC pedal (or multiple pedals
one assigned for each facet of the channel, ie presence, lead, middle, treble
etc). You could for instance get a pedal and assign it to at toe down be a
clean sparkly sound then as you roll back the pedal assign it morph into a
dirty sound as you the gain and presence etc increase.
There are 3 TriAxis versions:
- v1.0 the original s.n. <= 1700
- v2.0 with the Recto board in Lead 1 Red and
Continuous Controllers 1701 <= s.n. <= 5200
- v2.01 that has a modified Lead 1 Red (the "Fat
Mod") 5201 <= s.n.
It looks like the user manual still refers to Lead 1
Red as Recto Vintage Lead while the
website describes it as Fat Recto.
I'm not sure of this, but I think that the first file (triaxis1.jpg) is a schematic of what Fat
Mod does, and the 2nd file (triaxis2.jpg) is the original design. Lot's of changes happend so it's hard to say what's the
most important part in the mod.
I opened the versions and this what is different: 2
capacitors removed, 2 resistors removed, 4 resistors have their value changed!
They've on the board some adjustable that may need to "adjusted"
differently though!
If it's possible to compare those value on the little
blue adjustable and got the right ones it would be easy to add the components
that are removed for "Fat Mod"
as they have their place on the PCB! So it maybe more involved then a simple
modification. I was hoping it could be a simple task to modify back and forth.
From: "grisier" rgrisier@....com Rich
I'm an Electrical Engineer with 13 yrs. industrial
experience. On the side I work as a tech in a local music store. I'm completely
comfortable with performing mods. I think the day after I started playing
guitar I picked up a soldering iron.
I'm not sure at all I want it changed. I haven't even
recieved TriAxis yet (it should be here next week). I'm getting a Version 2
with "Fat Mod". I was curious as to what the exact changes were just
in case I wanted to un-fattify TriAxis. I'll definitely try it out for a while
before I do anything.
I took a look at the schematic of Dynamic Voice circuit. I calculated the transfer function and verified my results via PSpice. I may end up modifying that circuit also-- but again, I'll have to hear it first.
From: "satrucci7" satrucci@....fr Rémi
(France)
Right now I don't use TriAxis because I'm waiting for
2:90. I've been waiting for months because the PCB manufacturer (not Mesa) has
produced hundreds of defective boards and they had to re-make them! That takes
a looooooong time! The cool thing is that Mesa
has brought some changes to the design of this boards to make the amp even
better!
TriAxis is version 2.01 "Fat Mod". I'm a curious guy
who likes to have all the options, so I wanted to know how to reverse the mod,
but I haven't done it yet! First I want to test "Fat Mod" Lead 1 Red,
just like you!
All mods are on the TX4 board (the Lead 1 Red board).
To reverse "Fat Mod" you'll have to add 4 caps and 4 resistors and change 2 resistors.
1) Add 4 resistors:
R9 :120 KOhm
R44 : 33 KOhm
R45 : 330 KOhm
R46 : 82 KOhm
2) Add 4 disc. caps:
C5, C6 & C12 : 0.001 µF
C22 : 47 pF
3) Change these 2 resistors near the center of
the board and labelled MID & BASS. Replace them with:
R33 (MID) : 1 MOhm
R34 (BASS) : 10 Kohm
For me, w/o "Fat Mod"
is more aggressive in middle & high frequencies than "Fat Mod",
the low end seems a bit tighter as well. With "Fat Mod", I used to
need to set Lead Drive = 8-10 to get a big aggressive sound, w/o "Fat
Mod" 6-6.5 is more than enough! The sound is now huge, very metal, this
way it matches the description of Lead 1 Red mode in the user manual. It's not
difficult if you can solder, but it's not easy either. It took me 2 hours or so
to do the mod! I you prefer, you can have it done by a tech. I'm the 1st guy
who has reversed "Fat Mod" alone.
From: "tatetitofr" <tatetitofr@....fr>
My tech remove "Fat Mod" from TriAxis for
the best 30$ I've ever spent in my life!!! The tone is much better now (if
you're into metal)... Much tighter in bass department, palm mutes are now huge
and percussive, not unlike Lead 2 modes but in a more death-metal kind of way
(read HUGE and FAT... How ironic)... High mids are more agressive as well, just
at the right frequency. Gain seems to have increased as well, at the expense of
a little more noise (barely noticeable). Now I can get a crazy rhythm tone with
Drive = 5.5 and Gain = 6. I advise anyone liking metal rhythm to remove that lousy (pessima) "Fat Mod". My
tech followed the simple instructions posted by Satrucci on this site w/o any hassle...
I can't understand why Boogie created "Fat Mod"... ruining a
perfectly good sounding channel... removing "Fat Mod" has really
"unleashed the fiojking fjury"! POSSIBILITA' DI SWITCHING ???
In my mind, "metal tones" means tight-a-hell palm mutes primarily... that one condition is the most important for me... If you want an example, after the removal of "Fat Mod", Lead 1 Red went much closer to Suicidal Tendencies rhythm tone on the "Art of Rebellion" album than before. Before it was muddy mud, now it is tight and bouncy. What tubes do I use:
- a Mesa special 12AX7 with the rubber thingy around for Lead 1 Red input. I don't remember the exact reference (maybe Mesa SPAX7A?).
- other 12AX7 are various brands, a mix of Sovtek, Tesla and Chinese tubes. I've a dozen of unused 12AX7 that I swap now and then following my mood.
- I run a wet/dry/wet rig. Center channel is the power section of a JCM
800 2203 head fitted with JJ EL34.
I use various Marshall cabs, an old 4x12" with
Celestion G12-70 (not available anymore from Celestion), 2 of 2x12" and another 4x12" fitted
with G12T75. The effect is the same regardless of the cab... the tone is
tighter and better, period.
From: Phil Harrison pharrison@....uk
When whoever-it-was who is un-fat modding their
TriAxis does it, it would be good if they wrote down what the values of the
components are presently. Then will have instructions to "Fat" and
"un-Fat" TriAxis, rather than just "un-Fat" it.
From: "macegtr" <markku.hyvala@....com>
I just made this modification by myself and I've to
agree with other TriAxis owners that Mesa has basically spoiled perfectly
usable mode with this "Fat Mod". You don't even have to be a metal
player to find it much more usable w/o "Fat Mod". To made it happen I
just followed the instructions found from the Files section, bought some
components and replaced them for the Rectifier board. I'm much happier with
Lead 1 Red now.
Lift / Off
/ On Switch
The On/Off vs. Lift/Off/On switch (from top to bottom) seems to be a modification Mesa introduced following it's early(est) releases. I have an early release of TriAxis, it's version 2.0 non-Fat mod and I'm having a tech install the ground lift switch in mine while doing some other work on it.
labbypa@....net Paul
______________________________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ben the pond <Banderos@....com> Ben
Subject: serial number
I bought a really old TriAxis last year ($800) and had it shipped back to Boogie for the once over and v2 upgrade... the approx cost another $1000. All up $2200 which is about what 2nd hand TriAxis go for here - but at least I know mine is now in top condition. They even replaced the front panel. Have just noticed the serial number ... 0002! Do I've the 2nd TriAxis made? It's a sticker on the inner side at the back next to V5 tube.
From: Phil Harrison <pharrison@....uk>
Sounds like it! I've got no. 0193 I think (and that's
a late '92 one as far as I could tell from dates written on bits in the
inside). How much did the upgrade cost?
______________________________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lars Andersen" <Slither@....no>
Subject: Age and serial number
Where's the serial number on TriAxis placed, I've
looked around (w/o taking it out of the rack), but couldn't find it. How old it
is from the serial number, is there a chart somewhere?
From: "John Ludolf" <j.ludolf@....uk>
The s/n is on the left side of the tube bay, just
next to V5. It's visible while still in the rack. It's a stick on label, so I
guess it's possible it might have become detached with the heat of tubes if you
can't see it there. Regret, can't help you with the dating.
From: Sean Echevarria <sean@....com>
Unfortunately they don't have very good records. A
few years ago I hand delivered my v2.0 for repair. They were shocked that it
was v2.0 since it is s/n 1243 (that I bought new in March 1993).
From: "Lars Andersen" <Slither@....no>
I found the little sticker, turns out I've serial
number 2267, any idea how old this might be?
______________________________________________________________________________________________________